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Serving the Rockies

Banff as a Working Destination Since the 1880’s

Modern living in Banff National Park no longer has to mean isolation or toil. Sure, some people trek to work through the snow – but almost always by choice. Ubiquitous freight trains have replaced the main passenger services as most people have cars, bikes and even skis for commuting from their cosy homes to well paying jobs. Needless to say, life wasn’t so easy or entertaining for those who built the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) through Canada’s western mountains. Between hard labour, poor wages and the dangers of blasting, the Bow Valley would have been a foreboding place – they may have enjoyed the rustic hot pools, but never fine dining, paved trails or a quick drive to the airport!

Canada was born in 1867, but it was the construction of the CPR that assured national survival. When the young government learned about hot springs on the side of Sulphur Mountain it nationalised business interests and declared Canada’s first national park. Named Rocky Mountains Park in 1887, the original boundaries were limited to the pool area. The final Park boundaries were eventually fixed in 1930 and the area re-named Banff National Park. By that time, the Town of Banff was a vibrant community and Lake Louise an established and permanent village.

A national rail link was completed in 1885 (the main highway not until the 1960’s) and under William Van Horne’s astute tutelage, the CPR realised “since we can’t export the scenery, we’ll have to import the tourists.” Thus a great chain of hotels and services were constructed across Canada. The new service industry in Canada’s rugged mountains provided work for the young and the adventurous from around the world.

The history of working life in Banff National Park is really a tail of two groups; workers who chose and loved the mountains, and those who had the difficult terrain chosen for them - by necessity and by force! During both world wars interment labour camps were established in the mountain parks for ‘Illegal aliens’ and ‘conscientious objectors.’ During the Great Depression of the 1930’s, the Canadian Government financed relief projects developing roads and infrastructure. Meanwhile, top chefs, musicians and world-class mountaineers competed for coveted jobs in premier hotels, while other services sprung up as the communities of the Bow Valley grew.

The Banff Springs Hotel and Chateau Lake Louise (originally a much smaller ‘chalet’) opened soon after the park was established, offering summer employment and unique Canadian refinement in the wilderness. Workers travelled across the continent to find wild animals, elite tourists and all the social adventures of resort life. Realising the popularity of mountaineering in the region, the CPR turned to the Swiss for their mountain expertise. These new park residents adapted quickly to the Rockies environment, successfully leading visitors up many peaks, and in formal mountain attire no less. Many stayed and made Canada their permanent home. Other guides and outfitters, such as Tom Wilson and Mary Schaffer, embraced the wilderness by leading small groups of visitors through the rough terrain. But these early mountain people are somewhat exceptional to the Canadian Rockies experience. Perhaps because of Canada’s relatively stable development, or possibly due to the elite and costly nature of travel into Canada’s first national parks, the standards of service were high.

Tourism in the Rockies was a seasonal affair well into the 20th century. When the snow began to fall, hotels were boarded up and most workers would travel home with a little money and plenty of memories. Some of the Swiss guides stayed on as custodians of the properties. Others workers settled in the Town of Banff, the mining communities of Bankhead (no longer in existence) or Canmore (outside the Park entrance) and the isolated village near Lake Louise.

Winter tourism to the park remained limited until skiing was finally introduced to the Bow Valley. Until 1911, visitors could only arrive to the region by train, horseback or on foot – winter travel required a level of equipment and sophistication beyond the reach, knowledge or desire of many potential visitors. Yet Canada has always been the True North Strong and Free and with hindsight it is of little surprise that winter activities would prove so alluring.

Although the first chairlift in the Rockies was not installed until 1948 and the Banff Springs Hotel was not winterised until 1968, the Town of Banff threw its first winter party in 1917. The Banff Winter Festival, like the Calgary Stampede to the east, offered attractions and entertainment to the general population, thus bringing tourism to the masses. When the road was extended to Lake Louise, the Park’s most famous Lake became increasingly accessible. The spectre of winter tourism must have been encouraging to the many seasonal workers who loved the Rockies. University students found summer work ideal, whereas for those who settled, winter tourism allowed people to stay and play year round. As winter services expanded, seasonal employers to look abroad for workers – and the Commonwealth came through, with Aussies, Kiwis, Brits and many more coming to experience the Canadian mountain lifestyle.

By the 1970’s Alberta was booming with oil. The every-growing market within the province filled Banff and Lake Louise hotels, demanding more rooms and greater services. In fact interest in living in the Park grew to such an extent that the need to reside clause was invoked, in order to manage growth. Since the 1880’s Banff has remained magical destination, defined by its environment, activities and services. Perhaps due to a steady flow of new residents, or conceivably just the relaxed culture of the mountains, Banff National Park is one of those rare places where workers are as happy as the visitors. Its population reflects the diversity of the visitors and while protected and managed, Canada’s premier national park remains a special working destination.